REVIEW
Former Stork on the Roofers, Jennifer Gittins and Michael van den Winkel, have reappeared with new midtown digs: the aptly named Quince.

Enhanced by clever lighting, the space is deceptively large while managing to maintain a level of intimacy. The main room - a Curr Deidrishson design - is warm and inviting, aglow with earthy hues, while an inviting bar awaits in the back. Behind the bar sits a semi-open kitchen. It’s a wonderful spot for a pre-whatever drink coupled with a voyeuristic glimpse at the culinary crew going through the paces. For office party planners, the downstairs contains a private lounge/dining area that can accommodate cocktail events or sit down dining. The duck leg (18$) offers nuance. Braised in orange and red wine, it has a faint, sweet and earthy flavour, thus enhancing the gamey fowl. The accompanying salad of orange and mint adds a welcome lightness to the festivities, while a side order of grilled rapini (5$) has a fragrant smokiness.

Leaving the dessert choice to my guest, I am chagrined when she selects the Frangelico crème brulee (6$) from a card that offers great promise. The brulee is flawless, but how excited can anyone get about crème brulee? A note to chefs everywhere: it’s enough with the g-dang crème brulee already!

Overall, Quince provides a happy dining experience. The well-intentioned front of house staff could use a slight polish, but that should come in time. With its impressive pedigree, Quince has a ways to go to reach its potential. Hopefully, it will quickly ripen and bear sweet resto-fruit.

To begin, I opt for the potato, leek and asparagus soup with goat cheese (6$), while the divine Ms. X chooses the arugula salad in pomegranate dressing, graced with figs, hazelnuts and pecorino (9$). The soup is served piping hot, an appreciated respite from a chilly fall day. Its smooth texture gives way to the dominant leek and asparagus with a goat cheese finish. The salad is well balanced as the peppery arugula and pecorino cheese play nicely with the sweetness of the dressing and the figs.

Lamb sirloin, classically paired with bean flageolet casserole (19$), is pleasantly crusted with grain mustard, garlic and thyme. Though well prepared, the dish lacks surprise. The menu lists the roasted lamb sirloin as being served medium, and I understand why. Respectable chefs are rightly loathe to cook a lovely piece of flesh into oblivion and many a pan has been flung in many a kitchen when some neophyte diner orders the blue fin tuna well done. But would Chef be offended if I ordered it rare to medium rare? A sirloin cut can easily withstand being served less than medium.

The duck leg (18$) offers nuance. Braised in orange and red wine, it has a faint, sweet and earthy flavour, thus enhancing the gamey fowl. The accompanying salad of orange and mint adds a welcome lightness to the festivities, while a side order of grilled rapini (5$) has a fragrant smokiness.

Leaving the dessert choice to my guest, I am chagrined when she selects the Frangelico crème brulee (6$) from a card that offers great promise. The brulee is flawless, but how excited can anyone get about crème brulee? A note to chefs everywhere: it’s enough with the g-dang crème brulee already!

Overall, Quince provides a happy dining experience. The well-intentioned front of house staff could use a slight polish, but that should come in time. With its impressive pedigree, Quince has a ways to go to reach its potential. Hopefully, it will quickly ripen and bear sweet resto-fruit.
Source: martiniboys.com