The space is bright and open when most establishments are changing to dark and heavy fixtures and furnishings. The high ceilings and subtle lighting lend a sexy feel to the space, though the paintings covering the walls might help - they are of lanky silhouettes stretching and swaying, like figures dancing behind a screen.
The best part about the layout and design is that while you are enveloped in a warm fine dining experience, it is not at all cold or aloof like some establishments can be. And for that, I’m extremely grateful.
The fresh, mostly organic fare is flavourful and superbly prepared, but you can actually tell (and enjoy) what it is you are eating – a rarity in today’s gastronomic climate where a chef can get carried away with sauces, seasonings and a host of ingredients competing for your attention and leave the diner wondering what just happened.
Chef Mark Cutrara and owner Ed Ho have created a menu that focuses on fresh ingredients and honest flavours. Somehow Cutrara has managed to keep the integrity of the food while being incredibly creative with both the flavours and presentation. To me, that is talent.
Every item has been carefully considered, prepared and presented.
Fresh Atlantic Malpeque oysters ($12) arrive and I swoon as memories of warm sun and the fresh sea air wash over me. An auspicious beginning for sure. The daily soup arrives – pumpkin with pancetta foam ($7). Thick, but not heavy, the pumpkin is allowed room to shine and the smokiness of the pancetta gives it a heartiness that makes me want to start every day with a cup of this instead of coffee. Dungeness crab empanadas with Anaheim chili, coriander seedlings and a jalapeno cumin crema ($12) should be renamed crab “clouds” as empanadas are often heavy and filing and Mark has created one as light as meringue. My world suddenly changed, as will yours. The meal continues to elate me, with soft Cumbrae Farms’ braised Berkshire pork belly($14, comes with scallops as well), the freshest Pan seared Georgian Bay pickerel ($24) that will have you driving around looking for somewhere to park yourself and your line for a couple of hours until you can catch one yourself. Slow cooked Moroccan-style oxtail ($19) and Roasted La Ferme caribou leg ($32) appears and excites both my palate and spirit.
It seems too good to be true, but I assure you it isn’t. It is just fresh food prepared with great thought and intense passion for flavours. Finally.
In addition to all of this, there is also a lovely tapas menu if you just want to come in for a drink and a little bite, chairs placed at the kitchen window so that you can watch as your personal tasting menu is prepared, and thanks to such a commitment to fresh vegetables, vegetarian options are available – now you can think it’s too good to be true again, but it still isn’t.
Source: dine.to
Shopping Cart
