The Scene A pumpkin-shaded hybrid of live-work loft and "This Old House"-restored barn, Brick's main dining room is dominated by its namesake, a 100-year-old exposed-brick wall. The space, and where to sit in it, is all about who to watch: table companions, strangers at the adjacent horseshoe-shaped bar, cooks in the exhibition kitchen or foot traffic passing the window seats.

The Food This tasty fare is more than comfort food-plus; the menu of sharable dishes aims higher, and succeeds with flair. The unconventional seared-watermelon salad, the surprisingly elegant chicken wings and the tuna crudo with pickled papaya, avocado, sea beans, kaffir and horseradish are required starters, while Pacific scallops with sweet corn and leeks are moist and plump. Burgers (two per plate, small and perfect for sharing) with fries and curry-ketchup are a solid choice, and a "Coffee and Toast" dessert--mole pots de creme, cinnamon-raisin-bread pudding--ends matters on a high note.

Parking If the hard-to-score street spots are full, try the pay lot across the street or one of several nearby garages.

The Extras Admiring one of those painting on the wall? Check for a price--it may well be for sale.

Know Before You Go For private parties, the separate Gallery, which features work by local artists, fits up to 50. Smaller groups may reserve the Brick Room for a $100 fee (applicable towards the $600 food-and-drink minimum required to call it your own any night of the week).