Spanky's teases hungry customers with the heady smell of firewood, which is stacked to one side of the entrance vestibule. Once you're inside, the scent of spice-rubbed brisket lifts you to your table, a little red-and-white checked number outfitted with napkins and sauces. The decor really pushes the theme, with plenty calculated down-home touches throughout: giant pink-pig murals with dotted lines on their pudgy bodies, a wall of Tabasco jugs. Clearly, the Theater District isn't known for its nuance. This doesn't detract from the joy of Spanky's spicy, smoked meat, however. A smoker takes up a pizza-oven-sized area against one wall, where the chef plucks huge racks of glazed ribs, whole chickens and whatever else from revolving steel baskets, replaces them with other cuts of meat and closes the glass door, treating you to a hypnotic scene similar to that in a Laundromat. Here, of course, the reward is much tastier

The subtle scent of smoke envelops the space filled with checkered tablecloths, neon-lighted signs and kitschy decor. Vegetarians quickly get the hint: Two giant outlines of pigs are painted on the red walls and small pig statuettes adorn the entrance. From chicken wings and smoked beef brisket to pulled pork and Texas links, the menu features many barbecue favorites. Sides such as collard greens and cheese grits are well-represented, and pecan pie makes an appearance for dessert.

Spanky's serves draft beers from nearby Heartland Brewery. Try the Indiana pale ale by the glass or pitcher.